Mull and onwards

Saturday 9th August

Up and packed up by 9.30am. The lovely hostel staff allowed me to leave my stuff in the common room while I waited for my bus so I went for a wander in the sunshine, grabbed a coffee at the pier, then went back to the hall to buy an amazing top I'd seen the day before at the Himalayan exhibit.

Return to hostel, added new clothing to the rucksack and it was off to the bus stop. Quick pint at Macgochans then back to Craignure for the boat.

The theory was to catch the boat to Islay once I got to Oban but the forecast was seriously dodgy with the arrival of the end of Hurricane Bertha.

So I arranged to meet my friend Elaine in Oban for a couple of drinks while I figured out what to do next.

As it turned out, she had to head back to Dumbarton and I had an offer of free accommodation in Partick so the pair of us went for the Glasgow train. Which was actually a fairly stressful experience. We're talking height of summer, Oban. 20 zillion tourists. 3 carriages on one of the most scenic train routes in the world. Add queuing at the station while the train changes platforms at random moments. Tensions were running high.

Despite the mini trauma (which also included a ticket that may not have been valid), we got settled on the train, with a table, food and wine and I thoroughly enjoyed the journey South with a setting sun.

Thanks to Elaine's advice, I shortcutted to Partick by changing at Dalmuir, thus avoiding Glasgow City centre.

A quick nip round Morrisons and it was out past the Crow Road to my awesome kip for the night.

Mull

Thursday 7th August

On the 6pm but delayed boat to Craignure.

Where I met two wand waving lovelies. Michelle and Stacey. I was curious as to whether they had been on a hen do but they quickly told me they had just been to get their hair done and had made a day of it. However, they loved my hen do theory so I am now engaged to Michelle....

Aff the boat, tent pitched literally minutes before the heavens opened and it was a wee chill out listening to the rain drumming down and having a smoke.

Then headed to the pub where I met Michelle and Stacey again (this will be the engagement bit) and had a few pints.

Back to the tent and a cosy night despite the lashing rain!

Friday 8th August

Awoke in my sleeping bag to the sound of rain again. Decided coffee was required before anything else happened so took myself off to the Craignure Inn and fortified myself. And met Will, a philosopher and a poet. With whom I has a lovely chat about the state of the world before he looked after my stuff while I went to take the tent down.

Returning to the pub, looking like a drowned rat, I managed to convince a couple of No voters to change their minds before accompanying Will to the bus to Tobermory.

Lordy loo, are buses on Mull expensive! £10 return from Craignure to Tobermory but at least it is valid for three weeks.

Travel pass didn't cover this one (I checked) so just had to suck it up.

Arrived in Tobermory, deposited rucksack, hung tent up to dry and headed out for a pint.

Ended up in Macgochans talking to a guy from Coll. And his friends. Who kept buying me drinks....

Finally made it back to the hostel around 7pm, checked in, had a shower and went back to the pub for something to eat.

After a sweet meal of beer battered scallops and hand cut chips, plus a pint, it was time for a dram and bed.

Except it turned into 3 drams while I talked a slightly psychotic German yachter out of his tizzy and refused a job on his boat. Hey ho.

Walk back to the hostel. Check on the tent. Dry enough. Roll and fold tent back into bag. Acquire hip flask and smoke.

Stand watching the moon sparkling like gold dust across the sea. Feel supremely happy.

Oban and surrounding areas

Wednesday 6th August

Woke up full of the cold and feeling decidedly dodgy. One of my lovely room mates dosed me up with tablets and the nice people at the hostel let me extend my stay and sleep longer.

Mid-afternoon, feeling better, I took myself off for a bowl of soup in the pub.

Followed by a wee wander round Oban, a couple of pints in the Lorne and back to the hostel for an early night after a quick chat with my German room mate.

Thursday 7th August

Up and out of the hostel for 10am. A stroll to the train station to deposit my rucksack in left luggage, retrieving the tent, sleeping bag and change of clothes, before heading to the bus for the Isle of Seil.

At the bus stop I met the awesome Elaine Shaw and we blethered away happily on the bus to Easdale/Ellenabeich. 

On arrival we pressed the button to call the 'ferry' over to Eaadale Island. An extremely small outboard arrived. Thank crikey it was a calm day as I havenae been in a boat that wee since I was 16! Elaine was similarly concerned, neither of us being great sailors. However, the sun was shining, the crew were serious eye-candy and the crossing took 5 minutes!

Now, Elaine and I are obviously of a similar mind set because it took us about three seconds to decide that the first port of call should be the pub!

Suitably refreshed in the sunshine, we went our separate ways for a wander. Elaine is a geologist and was excited to find several different rocks.

I went for a walk then headed back to the pub to enquire about camping possibilities.

Now, I am usually extremely lucky with finding somewhere handy to stick my tent up, and I am not knocking the people of Easdale, but the distinct impression I got was that they didnae want me there. Fair enough. If a little out of kilter from my usual experiences.

Still, I'm a go with the flow kinda gal, so bumping into Elaine again and deciding to chum her back to Oban seemed like a plan. 

So we duly got the 'ferry' back to Seil, had a pint while waiting for the bus, then headed back to Oban.

To Wetherspoons and another pint or two before I got the boat to Mull. Thanks to Elaine again, for help with luggage, keeping an eye on stuff while I retrieved my rucksack, buying drinks and just being a total star!

Small Isles and onwards

Monday 4th August

Was spent enjoying the Eigg hospitality which may have been the reason that I stayed another night.....ok, fine, I fell asleep and missed the boat! 

Thankfully, this was not a problem as I had somewhere to stay and good company.

Tuesday 5th August

Lift back to the ferry terminal a little early for the boat, quick bit of shopping for the onward journey, a brief interval of having a phone signal giving me the chance to let the parentals know I was still alive and it was back on the MV Loch Nevis.

To much ribbing from the crew along the lines of 'what happened to leaving yesterday?' and 'where have you been?'

Still, I can take that in return for an illicit black pudding and bacon roll. Cheers to chef Mark (aye, since you're part of the furniture now), Joanne (had tae bring it tae ye as no one else is getting it) and Anne (ye're aff yer head but ye're lovely and friendly) on the boat.

Quick dash back to the hostel in Mallaig to retrieve the stuff I'd left there and it was on to the train to Fort William.

Where I met the lovely Ellen (whom I first met in Mallaig, en route to Rum) and she duly delivered on her promise to give me free luggage storage. Thereby freeing me up to go for a pint :-)

Pint consumed, it was time to collect my kit and head for the bus to Oban.

Now, I would usually wax lyrical about this journey but I confess, I slept through most of it on this occasion!

Arrived in Oban awake, had a quick pint in the Lorne for old times sakes the headed to the hostel and got my head down for the night. (It was raining!)

Small Isles Part 3

Sunday 3rd August

After a beautiful night sleeping in the yurt, it was up and out to retrieve my stuff from the village hall and await the fabulous Dave Beaton arriving with the extended golf buggy to take me down to the pier. This lovely convenience (read laziness) was arranged on Saturday morning when boarding the ferry. Dave is the harbour master among a multitude of other job titles, and I'd been told by Abby that he would undoubtedly be able to come and retrieve me. So after informing him he was going to be my new best friend on the way out, I confirmed everything (while getting a lift back to the village with him) on Saturday night.

Duly deposited at the pier in time for the boat, I was greeted with laughter and 'not you again' ribaldry by the calmac staff on boarding.

This was only increased when I explained the mission of the day. Getting to Eigg. Which involved another stop at Canna, sailing back to Mallaig, then finally out to Eigg. A nice wee 5 hour trip. 

And lots of conversations with the staff and being allowed to stay on the boat at Mallaig despite technically having to get off and get on again. It's quite strange wandering around a calmac ferry when there is no one, crew included, about.

Anyway, Anne and Mark in the kitchen made sure I was well looked after.

Arrived on Eigg and made my way to the tearoom, theoretically looking for the minibus to get to the Glebe Barn hostel where I had provisionally booked a room.

Ach, well, we all have good intentions. And they pave the way to you know where.

Suffice it to say, I ended up with a drink in my hand outside the tearoom, in conversation and getting invited to a barbecue on the far side of the island. What's a girl to do except accept?

Not that that is quite how it worked out! I did end up on the far side of the island but the guys who were giving me a lift decided to detour for a dram before going to the barbecue and I got to tag along. And then conversations started flowing along with the whisky, the night got late, sofa space was volunteered and I concluded another awesome night on the Small Isles. I also had to promise to compete for Eigg in the games next year mind you!

Small Isles Part Two

Saturday 2nd August

With the new found plan of going to the Games on Muck, I had no need to take the tent down, so it was up and off to the 9am boat.

As most of you will know, I am decidedly not a morning person so not having to take the tent down AND get to an early boat at a pier a 30 minute walk away was a blessing!

Once safely settled on the boat, with a cup of tea, I ended up becoming inadvertently involved in an impromptu Community meeting with various people from Rum, including Trudi but also the delightful Claire.

A brief stop at Canna, a few dolphin sightings, more conversations with the Rum guys and we arrived on Muck. 

Most of my travelling companions were camping on the island to partake of the post games ceilidh so I parted ways with them briefly while they got pitched up and went and had a wee explore. And promptly found myself in the graveyard. Trust me!

However, I spotted a standing stone while sitting there so headed off to investigate / commune!

En route, I saw Ross from Rum struggling with his tent so stopped to help him before heading up the hill to the stone, the wind turbines and stunning views.

Heading back down, I got chatting to a lovely pair of ladies who were visiting family on Muck before heading for the games field.

Where I got co-opted as a member of the girls team for Rum. Now, I don't know about you but I haven't competed in an egg and spoon race (or to be strictly accurate in this case, a tattie and spoon race) for a VERY long time!

The most amusing moment occurred though during the 4 person sack race, where I literally got mucky on Muck due to our teams complete failure to stay on our feet resulting in a handful of cow shit. I haven't laughed so hard for a long time!!!

This was followed by the obstacle race and welly whacking before I sadly had to head for the boat back to Rum.

This actually wasn't as sad as it could have been as earlier in the somewhat wet afternoon Claire had offered me the use of her yurt for the night as she wasn't going to be there! An offer that, after double checking it was ok, I was extremely happy to accept along with a diagram of where to find the kindling and wood for the stove.

So, back on the boat, some food, a quick kip which caused Anne in the cafeteria a slight moment of panic as she thought I may have been getting off at Canna and it was back to a rain-drenched Rum to take the tent down.

Mission accomplished and gear stowed in the village hall, it was off to my des res for the night.

And oh my, was I glad to be there as it was lashing down.

Swiftly, got the fire on and had a truly beautiful evening listening to tunes, having a wee dram and a smoke (permitted) in a gorgeously cosy yurt with the rain drumming down outside. I have rarely felt so blessed!!!

Small Isles, Big Adventures

Thursday 31st July (cont)

A really good night at the hostel in Mallaig talking with my fellow guests and having a few drinks, then off to bed.

Friday 1st August

A bit of reorganising of the rucksack (as the lovely David had said I could leave some of my gear with them in Mallaig and retrieve it on my return) then it was out for a wander and a sneaky, time-killing pint. Where I met Ellen, Gary and Michael, who were also headed for Rum. Turns out Ellen was a super handy person to meet as she works at the train station in Fort William and assured me she would be happy to store luggage for me for free if I needed it in Fort. Class!

Anyway, a quick nip round the co-op for last minute supplies and it was off to the ferry with a lighter load.

Lovely day for a sail, with the extra bonus of awesome scenery and a minke sighting.

Arrived on Rum a little after two, still in glorious sunshine, where I met Trudi, the ranger, and Abby who works at the hostel. Abby very kindly let me put my bags on the trailer going up to the castle and the hostel, even though I wasn't sure if I would stay there or not. Even more helpful was being allowed to leave stuff at the hostel while I went for a look around. A quick bite to eat and a pint at the village hall and I had scoped my camping spot so it was collect the gear and get the tent pitched. 

Tent up it was chill time in the sun, a quick change of clothes (it was warm!!) and then a wander to sit outside the hall with a wee glass of wine.

As is often the case, there were a few people also having a libation outside the hall and being the slightly forward person I am, I soon ended up in conversation. As two of the people there were Abby and Trudi, this wasn't as intrusive as I may have implied!

Very glad I did join them as I found out that the inter-island games were being held on Muck the next day so I took little time altering my plans so I could attend. As this had the added bonus of not having to take the tent down at the crack of dawn the next morning, it really was a quick decision.

A lovely evening was had and I retired to my sleeping bag highly impressed with the friendliness of the Rum locals.

Onwards

Thursday 31st July

Early (for me) start. But hard to complain when the kids are so excited to see me awake that they come and sit on the bed to talk to me while I am packing up!

Breakfast of champions (cup of tea and a fag) then my personal chauffeur and awesome hostess, Gill, drove me to the train station where I met up (albeit briefly) with the lovely Eileen, who has offered me accommodation in Aviemore if I ever want it! Awesome sauce. I love offers of spare beds!

Now safely ensconsed on the train from Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh, one of my favourite train journeys.

Arrived in Kyle and made it on to the Armadale bus because the lovely driver (Jim) stopped when he saw me haring towards him. He was leaving but, bless his cotton socks, he stopped, let me on, didn't need to see my pass because he believed me and proceeded to drive me, a cool lady from Armadale, 2 German hikers (Stefan and Jan) and some Japanese tourists to the ferry. Good blether with lady from Armadale and Jim. Weather kept improving too - it was raining in Inverness!

Got talking to the German hikers at Armadale and chatted on the ferry to Mallaig.

Arrived in Mallaig, found my hostel, checked in, met the super David who took my booking, got lent towels for free (!), had THE best shower ever, then wandered out in the sunshine for a recce. 

Some shopping, a pint and a few devious plans later, I am now sat outside the hostel, glass of wine and a fag in hand, enjoying the sunshine. Life is good.

August 2014 cont.

Wednesday, 30th July cont

So after that exchange, I finished my pint, wandered up to Inverness Castle, then settled into a blooming lovely pint of Somersby cider at the Castle Tavern,

Reluctantly left there and got myself on a bus back to Msr MacRae's gaff. 

Quick blether with the lovely Steven (Ali's flat mate) then picked up by Gill to spend the night in Drumnadrochit.

Beautiful, chilled out evening. Fresh air, awesome kids giving me blethers, cuddles, my first loom band and instructing me on how to make one (all yours Rory!), bats swooping, glass of wine, good food, good company, girlie gossip, old episodes of Friends. And a Magnum ice cream!

Awesome way to finish a day.

August 2014

Tuesday 29th July.

Departure day! Admittedly a day after I expected to be leaving, but hey, go with the flow. 

A slightly stressful start, given my house sitter was running late, but thanks to his wonderful offer of a lift to Waverley, and the relatively quick moving queue at the ticket counter, I made it on to the Inverness train, clutching the sacred Freedom of Scotland Travelpass in my (by this stage) slightly grubby paw.

What a lovely evening to be travelling  north. Beautiful sunshine, mill pond seas, progress on the new forth bridge and greenery!!! Oh how I have missed green open spaces. And seeing a hare bounding through the fields.

Laughed my head off at the state of 2 lads who arrived on the train at Perth, having literally made it by the skin of their teeth. Glad I'm not the only one!

Smile wiped off my face somewhat when scotrail reminded me of their alcohol ban as it was now after 9. Grrrr.

Ach, weel. Good blethers with the Perth arrived lads ensued, donated my crisps and sandwiches after discovering that one of the lads was rescuing the other after he had lost his wallet, phone, keys and god knows what else in Perth and needed returned to Inverness. Again, glad I'm not the only one who finds life challenging.

Now hurtling over the Slochd and ever closer to Inversneckie. As ever, an interesting journey from Embra to Inverness!

Arrived in Inverness about 5 minutes late - although as this was due to my train having to wait at Dalwhinnie for the sleeper to go through this wasnae a bad thing as allowed me and the Perth lads a sneaky fag - conned the lads into helping me carry my gear off the train and into the waiting arms of the stellar friend that is Alasdair MacRae. Who was highly amused by my recruitment of porters!

Swift lift back to Alasdair's gaff, a dram and a glass of wine and the adventure has officially begun.

Wednesday 30th July

Lazy start, met Alasdair's lovely flat mate who fed me cups of tea before I headed into town. A few last minute supplies purchased, it seemed rude not to visit my  favourite pub, so a pint (or two) outside Johnny Foxes seemed like a plan. Ended up having a lovely conversation about my travel plans with the gentleman on the next table which ended with the words: "Hope you have a great trip." Me: "I will, a smile and a good attitude go a long way."

Him: "Is there any other way to be?" Me: "Only if you actually want to be miserable!"

Avoidance

Sitting in my Hobbit hole
determined to be strong
but feeling so alone

I know I am the only one
who can make this right
allow myself to be true

Letting people in
makes me retract
Keeping people out
makes me exact
a punishment either way.

Politics of the Heart

The decision to vote Yes is not about traditional politics. It's about a politics of the heart, an inner knowing, a truth that has been denied me by history.

In 1992, I was living in Florida. We were asked to write an article envisioning what we would have achieved by 2005. We were also encouraged to be as ambitious as possible while doing this.

I immediately became a freedom fighter in my imagination. So ingrained in my psyche was the need to be Scottish that my vision was to help my country to be free through peaceful activism. I still have a handwritten copy of this article and interestingly it includes the phrase 'As the economic climate changed, she gradually realised that the dream (of independence) wasn't as impossible as it seemed.'

What is important here is that this need was foremost in my heart and my mind. I spent my childhood watching biased media representations of my country and my people. Thanks to my English mother, I grew up knowing something was wrong, out of kilter. I felt the disconnection from my heritage. I knew things weren't right.

This vote isn't about policies. It's about a reconnection with who we are. An ability to stand in our own power again. Once we achieve the means to take care of ourselves, the policies can and will be determined, by us and for us. This is the best opportunity we will have in our lifetimes to help steer our country in a new, positive, nurturing direction.

For isn't that one of women's greatest gifts; the ability to nurture. We want to protect our bairns, our family, friends, heck, we want to protect the world itself. But how can we do that when we are denied our sense of identity? How can we make them be proud of themselves when we are isolated from our sense of self? Prevented from making the very decisions that matter most for our kin?

It is our responsibility to make those feelings, the need for connection and the necessity for a return to heart-led politics, vocal and visible. And if we need inspiration to draw from, let us look to the emancipation of our communities, the achievements of the Isles of Eigg and Gigha, of Assynt, in initiating vital change. And remember how important female voices were in achieving those goals. As Alastair McIntosh makes clear in 'Soil and Soul', 'it became more and more apparent that the campaign...was being driven forward, in no small measure, by its womenfolk.'

Admittedly, the fear of change can manifest in a conservative (decidedly with a small c) attitude. My mother, who taught me to be fiercely pro Scottish, is worried about a lot of the 'what ifs' if independence happens.

I get this. I understand her fear. But this is the woman who taught me to be proud. So I can believe. I can stand in my power and have faith that if we take the first step back to owning our country we can achieve greatness. In fact, it's the only choice we have if we want to improve our lives and the lives of those around us.

Dissonance

I am the first to admit that I run away from confrontation. 
I just want everyone to be happy and get along.  
I appreciate that this is unrealistic but, hey, I'm an idealist!

However, this fear results in things getting out of hand.  Stuff that should be said, isn't. Feelings that should be expressed, aren't.  Relationships that could be saved, die.

It's tough living with the knowledge that you screwed up.

And it takes time coming to terms with it.

But you just have to suck it up, learn from it and move on. 

Be happy, be free, be true xx