Mull

Thursday 7th August

On the 6pm but delayed boat to Craignure.

Where I met two wand waving lovelies. Michelle and Stacey. I was curious as to whether they had been on a hen do but they quickly told me they had just been to get their hair done and had made a day of it. However, they loved my hen do theory so I am now engaged to Michelle....

Aff the boat, tent pitched literally minutes before the heavens opened and it was a wee chill out listening to the rain drumming down and having a smoke.

Then headed to the pub where I met Michelle and Stacey again (this will be the engagement bit) and had a few pints.

Back to the tent and a cosy night despite the lashing rain!

Friday 8th August

Awoke in my sleeping bag to the sound of rain again. Decided coffee was required before anything else happened so took myself off to the Craignure Inn and fortified myself. And met Will, a philosopher and a poet. With whom I has a lovely chat about the state of the world before he looked after my stuff while I went to take the tent down.

Returning to the pub, looking like a drowned rat, I managed to convince a couple of No voters to change their minds before accompanying Will to the bus to Tobermory.

Lordy loo, are buses on Mull expensive! £10 return from Craignure to Tobermory but at least it is valid for three weeks.

Travel pass didn't cover this one (I checked) so just had to suck it up.

Arrived in Tobermory, deposited rucksack, hung tent up to dry and headed out for a pint.

Ended up in Macgochans talking to a guy from Coll. And his friends. Who kept buying me drinks....

Finally made it back to the hostel around 7pm, checked in, had a shower and went back to the pub for something to eat.

After a sweet meal of beer battered scallops and hand cut chips, plus a pint, it was time for a dram and bed.

Except it turned into 3 drams while I talked a slightly psychotic German yachter out of his tizzy and refused a job on his boat. Hey ho.

Walk back to the hostel. Check on the tent. Dry enough. Roll and fold tent back into bag. Acquire hip flask and smoke.

Stand watching the moon sparkling like gold dust across the sea. Feel supremely happy.

Oban and surrounding areas

Wednesday 6th August

Woke up full of the cold and feeling decidedly dodgy. One of my lovely room mates dosed me up with tablets and the nice people at the hostel let me extend my stay and sleep longer.

Mid-afternoon, feeling better, I took myself off for a bowl of soup in the pub.

Followed by a wee wander round Oban, a couple of pints in the Lorne and back to the hostel for an early night after a quick chat with my German room mate.

Thursday 7th August

Up and out of the hostel for 10am. A stroll to the train station to deposit my rucksack in left luggage, retrieving the tent, sleeping bag and change of clothes, before heading to the bus for the Isle of Seil.

At the bus stop I met the awesome Elaine Shaw and we blethered away happily on the bus to Easdale/Ellenabeich. 

On arrival we pressed the button to call the 'ferry' over to Eaadale Island. An extremely small outboard arrived. Thank crikey it was a calm day as I havenae been in a boat that wee since I was 16! Elaine was similarly concerned, neither of us being great sailors. However, the sun was shining, the crew were serious eye-candy and the crossing took 5 minutes!

Now, Elaine and I are obviously of a similar mind set because it took us about three seconds to decide that the first port of call should be the pub!

Suitably refreshed in the sunshine, we went our separate ways for a wander. Elaine is a geologist and was excited to find several different rocks.

I went for a walk then headed back to the pub to enquire about camping possibilities.

Now, I am usually extremely lucky with finding somewhere handy to stick my tent up, and I am not knocking the people of Easdale, but the distinct impression I got was that they didnae want me there. Fair enough. If a little out of kilter from my usual experiences.

Still, I'm a go with the flow kinda gal, so bumping into Elaine again and deciding to chum her back to Oban seemed like a plan. 

So we duly got the 'ferry' back to Seil, had a pint while waiting for the bus, then headed back to Oban.

To Wetherspoons and another pint or two before I got the boat to Mull. Thanks to Elaine again, for help with luggage, keeping an eye on stuff while I retrieved my rucksack, buying drinks and just being a total star!

Small Isles and onwards

Monday 4th August

Was spent enjoying the Eigg hospitality which may have been the reason that I stayed another night.....ok, fine, I fell asleep and missed the boat! 

Thankfully, this was not a problem as I had somewhere to stay and good company.

Tuesday 5th August

Lift back to the ferry terminal a little early for the boat, quick bit of shopping for the onward journey, a brief interval of having a phone signal giving me the chance to let the parentals know I was still alive and it was back on the MV Loch Nevis.

To much ribbing from the crew along the lines of 'what happened to leaving yesterday?' and 'where have you been?'

Still, I can take that in return for an illicit black pudding and bacon roll. Cheers to chef Mark (aye, since you're part of the furniture now), Joanne (had tae bring it tae ye as no one else is getting it) and Anne (ye're aff yer head but ye're lovely and friendly) on the boat.

Quick dash back to the hostel in Mallaig to retrieve the stuff I'd left there and it was on to the train to Fort William.

Where I met the lovely Ellen (whom I first met in Mallaig, en route to Rum) and she duly delivered on her promise to give me free luggage storage. Thereby freeing me up to go for a pint :-)

Pint consumed, it was time to collect my kit and head for the bus to Oban.

Now, I would usually wax lyrical about this journey but I confess, I slept through most of it on this occasion!

Arrived in Oban awake, had a quick pint in the Lorne for old times sakes the headed to the hostel and got my head down for the night. (It was raining!)

Small Isles Part 3

Sunday 3rd August

After a beautiful night sleeping in the yurt, it was up and out to retrieve my stuff from the village hall and await the fabulous Dave Beaton arriving with the extended golf buggy to take me down to the pier. This lovely convenience (read laziness) was arranged on Saturday morning when boarding the ferry. Dave is the harbour master among a multitude of other job titles, and I'd been told by Abby that he would undoubtedly be able to come and retrieve me. So after informing him he was going to be my new best friend on the way out, I confirmed everything (while getting a lift back to the village with him) on Saturday night.

Duly deposited at the pier in time for the boat, I was greeted with laughter and 'not you again' ribaldry by the calmac staff on boarding.

This was only increased when I explained the mission of the day. Getting to Eigg. Which involved another stop at Canna, sailing back to Mallaig, then finally out to Eigg. A nice wee 5 hour trip. 

And lots of conversations with the staff and being allowed to stay on the boat at Mallaig despite technically having to get off and get on again. It's quite strange wandering around a calmac ferry when there is no one, crew included, about.

Anyway, Anne and Mark in the kitchen made sure I was well looked after.

Arrived on Eigg and made my way to the tearoom, theoretically looking for the minibus to get to the Glebe Barn hostel where I had provisionally booked a room.

Ach, well, we all have good intentions. And they pave the way to you know where.

Suffice it to say, I ended up with a drink in my hand outside the tearoom, in conversation and getting invited to a barbecue on the far side of the island. What's a girl to do except accept?

Not that that is quite how it worked out! I did end up on the far side of the island but the guys who were giving me a lift decided to detour for a dram before going to the barbecue and I got to tag along. And then conversations started flowing along with the whisky, the night got late, sofa space was volunteered and I concluded another awesome night on the Small Isles. I also had to promise to compete for Eigg in the games next year mind you!

Small Isles Part Two

Saturday 2nd August

With the new found plan of going to the Games on Muck, I had no need to take the tent down, so it was up and off to the 9am boat.

As most of you will know, I am decidedly not a morning person so not having to take the tent down AND get to an early boat at a pier a 30 minute walk away was a blessing!

Once safely settled on the boat, with a cup of tea, I ended up becoming inadvertently involved in an impromptu Community meeting with various people from Rum, including Trudi but also the delightful Claire.

A brief stop at Canna, a few dolphin sightings, more conversations with the Rum guys and we arrived on Muck. 

Most of my travelling companions were camping on the island to partake of the post games ceilidh so I parted ways with them briefly while they got pitched up and went and had a wee explore. And promptly found myself in the graveyard. Trust me!

However, I spotted a standing stone while sitting there so headed off to investigate / commune!

En route, I saw Ross from Rum struggling with his tent so stopped to help him before heading up the hill to the stone, the wind turbines and stunning views.

Heading back down, I got chatting to a lovely pair of ladies who were visiting family on Muck before heading for the games field.

Where I got co-opted as a member of the girls team for Rum. Now, I don't know about you but I haven't competed in an egg and spoon race (or to be strictly accurate in this case, a tattie and spoon race) for a VERY long time!

The most amusing moment occurred though during the 4 person sack race, where I literally got mucky on Muck due to our teams complete failure to stay on our feet resulting in a handful of cow shit. I haven't laughed so hard for a long time!!!

This was followed by the obstacle race and welly whacking before I sadly had to head for the boat back to Rum.

This actually wasn't as sad as it could have been as earlier in the somewhat wet afternoon Claire had offered me the use of her yurt for the night as she wasn't going to be there! An offer that, after double checking it was ok, I was extremely happy to accept along with a diagram of where to find the kindling and wood for the stove.

So, back on the boat, some food, a quick kip which caused Anne in the cafeteria a slight moment of panic as she thought I may have been getting off at Canna and it was back to a rain-drenched Rum to take the tent down.

Mission accomplished and gear stowed in the village hall, it was off to my des res for the night.

And oh my, was I glad to be there as it was lashing down.

Swiftly, got the fire on and had a truly beautiful evening listening to tunes, having a wee dram and a smoke (permitted) in a gorgeously cosy yurt with the rain drumming down outside. I have rarely felt so blessed!!!

Small Isles, Big Adventures

Thursday 31st July (cont)

A really good night at the hostel in Mallaig talking with my fellow guests and having a few drinks, then off to bed.

Friday 1st August

A bit of reorganising of the rucksack (as the lovely David had said I could leave some of my gear with them in Mallaig and retrieve it on my return) then it was out for a wander and a sneaky, time-killing pint. Where I met Ellen, Gary and Michael, who were also headed for Rum. Turns out Ellen was a super handy person to meet as she works at the train station in Fort William and assured me she would be happy to store luggage for me for free if I needed it in Fort. Class!

Anyway, a quick nip round the co-op for last minute supplies and it was off to the ferry with a lighter load.

Lovely day for a sail, with the extra bonus of awesome scenery and a minke sighting.

Arrived on Rum a little after two, still in glorious sunshine, where I met Trudi, the ranger, and Abby who works at the hostel. Abby very kindly let me put my bags on the trailer going up to the castle and the hostel, even though I wasn't sure if I would stay there or not. Even more helpful was being allowed to leave stuff at the hostel while I went for a look around. A quick bite to eat and a pint at the village hall and I had scoped my camping spot so it was collect the gear and get the tent pitched. 

Tent up it was chill time in the sun, a quick change of clothes (it was warm!!) and then a wander to sit outside the hall with a wee glass of wine.

As is often the case, there were a few people also having a libation outside the hall and being the slightly forward person I am, I soon ended up in conversation. As two of the people there were Abby and Trudi, this wasn't as intrusive as I may have implied!

Very glad I did join them as I found out that the inter-island games were being held on Muck the next day so I took little time altering my plans so I could attend. As this had the added bonus of not having to take the tent down at the crack of dawn the next morning, it really was a quick decision.

A lovely evening was had and I retired to my sleeping bag highly impressed with the friendliness of the Rum locals.